January 2024 Subscription Wines
BOTTLES TO GET YOU THROUGH JANUARY
Vins et Vollailes • Les Putes Feministes • 2022 • Alsace, France • Gewürztraminer • Orange
Glou glou meets an explosion of layered tropicality and floral complexity. That may sound contradictory, but such is the skill of this all-women wine collective from Paris, who have given some Alsatian Gewürztraminer 10 days maceration while keeping the wine fresh and accessible. Big energy and flavours in lychee, rose and citrus.
No sulphur
Food: Thai Red Curry, Biryani, Duck à l’Orange
Preparation: Serve chilled
Domaine de la Pinte • Sav'or • 2022 • Jura, France • Savagnin • Orange
Elegant Jura Savagnin from the blue marl soils in the heart of Arbois, masterfully created by Pierre Martin. On the more sophisticated side of orange wines. Spending 12 days on skins, expect an intense spicy, citrus fruit nose. On the palate, white pepper, confit lemon, candied pear followed by a full, long finish with a hint of bitterness. A savoury wine for the foodies and orange-curious.
Food: Cheese, Grilled Fish, Seafood
Preparation: Serve chilled
Cantina Giardino • Sophia • 2020 • Campania, Italy • Greco • Orange
A phenomenal example of poised use of long skin maceration. Produced from Greco that spends a year on skins in small terracotta amphora, before being pressed off to acacia and chestnut casks for a further six months. With a tannic structure and lucid mineral thread, the expressive citrusy fruit is held beautifully.
Organic
Food: Rabbit Paella, Spiced Pork Belly, Persian Eggplant Stew
Preparation: Serve chilled
Jean-Yves Péron • I Vicini Moscato • 2020 • Haute-Savoie, France • Moscato • Orange
Peron’s hallowed name is well earnt, and this cuvee tells you exactly why. Produced from muscat grapes grown on white and grey marl in the Italian alps, and picked at optimum ripeness, the wine is spontaneously fermented on the skins for three weeks, and aged in used oak barrels for 12 months. Impressive aromatic depth and tannic drive, with enough acids to provide balance.
Biodynamic
Food: Tomme de Savoie, Tartiflette, Artichoke
Preparation: 15 minutes from the fridge
Claus Preisinger • Kalkundkiesl Rot • 2021 • Burgenland, Austria • Blaufrankisch, Pinot Noir • Red
Preisinger’s penchant for producing affable wines is on show here. A blend of Pinot Noir and Blaufränkisch, produced with a hands-off approach, the wine offers the brambly, cherry flavour of the latter while tending towards the juicy acidity of Austrian Pinot, and typical notes of wild berries and violets. Easygoing, and calling for confit duck.
Food: Tomato Based Pasta, Sausage Casserole, Paté
Preparation: Serve at room temperature
Domaine le Cebene • Faugères Les Bancels • 2021 • Herault, France • Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre • Red
An exceptionally well made red from well-known oenologist and expert vigneron Brigitte Chevalier operating in the Hérault. Totally organic and biodynamic, with minimal intervention, this is a wonderful expression of a quality southern French red, bursting with lush dark fruits tempered by stony minerality and aromatic depth, oozing balance & richness.
Food: Cheese Board, Steak, Seared Meats
Preparation: Serve at room temperature
Domaine Durrmann • Rouge de Pinot Noir • 2022 • Alsace, France • Pinot Noir • Red
This one’s crunchy, herbal and fruity. Encore raw berries, blackberry and plum. Aged in stainless steel until bottling. No filtration. Fantastic lightly chilled and served on its own, but also perfect at room temperature served with white meat or light nibbles.
Food:
Preparation: Serve at room temperature
Alex Wallman • Le Bureau du Vin, La Secrétaire • 2019 • Saumer, France • Cabernet Franc • Red
Alexander Walliman has worked under Saumur’s most esteemed winemakers, and this shows in his elegant Le Secretare. The destemmed Cabernet Franc grapes spend 8 days macerating on the skins before being slowly pressed into barrel for a year of ageing. The destemming really allows the purity of the fruit to shine in a gorgeously silky mouthfeel.
Food: Duck Breast, Grilled Red Peppers, Pasta alla Norma
Preparation: Serve at room temperature
Fabbrica de San Martino • Vendemmia Rosso • 2018 • Trentino, Italy • Canaiolo, Colorino, Sangiovese • Red
A classic yet soulful Tuscan red that's hard not to love. Produced from destemmed Sangiovese, Colorino, Canaiolo, which spend a week fermenting on the skins, followed by a year in large old casks and three years in bottle before release. With ample fruit and tannin and notes of black cherry and balsamic, this is calling for a bistecca Fiorentina or its more modern counterpart, tagliata.
Food: Bistecca Fiorentina, Tagliata
Preparation: Serve chilled
Tamuna's Wine • 3 Varieties of Grapes • 2021 • Kakheti, Georgia • Kisi, Khikhvi, Saperavi • Rose
An exciting co-ferment from one of the most cutting edge producers in Georgia right now. It’s produced from equal parts of the white grapes Kisi and Khikhvi, with 10% of the red grape Saperavi, which all undergo 7 days skin-maceration followed by maturation in Qvevri for around 9 months. Closer to the profile of a light red, its elegant and fresh with earthy and herbal aromas to match enticing blueberry fruit.
Food: Khachapuri, Salami, Goat’s Cheese
Preparation: Serve chilled
Katla Wines • Sassy Pet Nat • 2022 • Mosel, Germany • Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling • Pet Nat
Pet Nat, but not as you know it (yes, it really does carry some sass). Produced from a blend of 5-day semi-carbonically macerated Grüner Veltliner and Kerner, with directly-pressed Pinot Blanc, and 3-day macerated Riesling, all taking place in stainless steel tanks, the wine is then bottled with residual sugar, allowing, its gentle fizz emerges. Think alcoholic Orangina, but with a gingery edge.
Food: Korean Fried Chicken, Finnochiona, Fried Artichokes
Preparation: From ice
Domaine Durrmann • PetNat Mu Ska-T 2022 • 2022 • Alsace, France • Muscat • Pet Nat
PetNat, Durmann-style, meaning bags of herbaceous character. Produced from Muscat that’s been skin-fermented in stainless steel tanks, and then blended with directly-pressed Riesling and Pinot Blanc, it is then refermented in the bottle to create bubbles, with just a touch of sulphur added . Like a fizzy Golden Delicious apple juice that’s been gently steeped in botanicals.
Organic
Food: Fried Chicken, Samosas, Thai Green Curry
Preparation: From ice
Clement Baraut • Savennieres, Le Pitrouillet • 2020 • Maine-et-Loire, France • Chenin Blanc • White
Baraut is one of the key figures pioneering biodynamics in Loire Valley, and his Chenin Blancs are chiselled yet so alive. Produced from a lieu-dit called Le Puit Rouillé that was purchased from Nicholas Joly, the 45-year-old Chenin vines are planted over schist and sandstone bedrock, and the wine ferments and ages in neutral oak on its fine lees until bottling. Expressive fruit, crisp acidity, and a thread of saline minerality make for a wine with stunning textural depth.
Biodynamic, no sulphur
Food: Roast Chicken, Crab Linguine, Gruyère
Preparation: Serve chilled
Domaine Durrmann • Ron-rond le Litron • 2022 • Alsace, France • Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner • White
An ideal apéritif for your oysters or to enjoy alone. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Gewurtztraminer and Sylvaner, part vinified in stainless steel, part aged in old wooden casks. Salty, pithy, alive and pure – this is Durrmann to a tee.
Food: White Meats, Stir Fry, Seafood
Preparation: Serve chilled
Werlitsch • Vom Opox Ex Vero 1 • 2020 • Styria, Austria • Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc • White
Ewald Tscheppe’s wines have a cult status for a reason; he is a master of turning grapes into high-energy beauties with thrilling minerality. Produced from a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, fermentation takes place naturally, with the wine ageing for up to 30 months in barrel. Creamy yet vibrant, with aromas of citrus peel, exotic spices, alpine herbs and fresh mountain breeze.
Biodynamic
Food: Grilled Prawns, Brandane, Chicken Kiev
Preparation: Serve 10 minutes from the fridge
Ca di Noci • Sottobosco • 2021 • Emilia-Romagna, Italy • Grasparossa, Malbo Gentile, Montericco • Sparkling Red
If you’ve never tried sparkling red, there is no better place to start than Lambrusco. Short skin maceration and refermentation in bottle. With rich fruit, vibrant acids, grippy tannins, this is calling for a meaty pizza.Organic, no sulphur
Food: Pizza, Charcuterie, Lasagne
Preparation: Serve chilled
Zilliken • Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett • 2020 • Mosel, Germany • Riesling • White
This is as traditional as Mosel Riesling gets. Fermented and matured in traditional Fuder barrels, this off-dry, low-alcohol (8%) wine is a perfect antidote to heavy drinking. It is, however, still indulgent: The sweetness and crisp acidity of this wine combine to make for a pretty luxurious drinking experience. The Zilliken bottles are also beautiful, complete with a crest and coat of arms.
Food: Thit Kho Tau (Vietnamese Caramelised Pork), Schnitzel, Spicy Sushi
Preparation: Serve chilled
Ognostro • Bianco • 2020 • Campania, Italy • Fiano • Orange
With aromas of apricot, almonds, mint, and bitter orange, this wine practically mimics the gorgeous landscapes of the Taurasi denomination in Campania. Produced from Fiano di Avellino grown on volcanic soils, the wine is skin-fermented for two days in fibreglass and concrete vats before spending seven months in a mixture of ceramic amphorae and stainless steel tanks. It is then bottled unfined and unfiltered, where it spends another 6 months before release. Well-rounded and slightly peppery on the palate, the wine belongs with pasta.
Food: Spaghetti alla vongole, frittata di pasta, milk-braised pork
Preparation: Serve 10 minutes out of the fridge
